Хан Тэнгэр уулын авиралт- 2019

Үйл явдлын мэдээ 2019-03-26

Казакстан улсын  Kan Tengri Expeditions  компаниас   2019 онд Хантэнгэр ууланд хийх авиралтын тухай мэдээлэл ирүүллээ. 

Авиралтын талаар мэдээлэл авах сонирхолтой хүмүүс 7711-0306   утсаар лавлана уу. 

 

Our company, Kan Tengri Expeditions, has been organizing the ascent of Khan Tengri Peak from our base camp on the Northern Inylchek glacier since 1989 - 30 years already!

During this period, many hundreds of climbers from different countries of the World tested themselves on the slopes of Khan Tengri Peak.

All climbers have not only different climbing experiences (including high-altitude), physical and technical abilities, but also, which is important, a limited period for the expedition.

At your choice, in the season of 2019 our company offers four options for the expedition to Khan Tengri Peak from the North:

1. “Classic” – standard 24 days program with two acclimatization climbs up to the altitudes of 5500 m and 6150 m. This option is suitable for those who begin their career as a high-altitude climber.

2. “Guided expedition” - 24 days program with two acclimatization climbs up to the altitudes of 5500 m and 6150 m. An experienced professional guide will lead the group together with assistants (one on each of four climbers). The group will be equipped with high-altitude tents, ropes, gas stoves & cylinders, sets of cooking accessories. High-altitude food will be purchased in advance. Climbers have to bring their own personal equipment only.

 3. “Advanced” - 20 days with one acclimatization climb to 6150 m. This option is for those who have enough climbing experience to the summits of 5500m +.

4. “Extreme” - 14 days for experienced high-altitude mountaineers or for those who have already climbed another peak 6000m + this season before climbing to Khan Tengri peak. Convenient for the program "Snow Leopard" and “Ironman”.

The best period to climb Khan Tengri peak in our 30-year experience is July 15 - August 20, when there is less snow on the route, warm and rarely strong winds at high altitudes.

For each option, there are fixed expedition dates.

Have a good climbs!

Kazbek Valiyev

Director of Kan Tengri Expeditions.

  • 22 ascents to the summits of 7000m +:
  • leader of the first ascents to the peak of A. Blok, Kyzyl Asker, Communism Peak, 7495m along the South-Western Face (new route).
  • one of the climbers along the South-Western Face of Mt Everest (new route);
  • made an ascent to Mt Dhaulagiri, 8167 m along the South-South-West edge (new route) in the “Alpine style”;
  • chief - climber of the USSR national team on the traverse of four peaks of Mt Kanchenjunga.

 

 

  1. “Classic” program:

Standard program of ascent on Khan Tengri Peak from the North.

Expedition style”, in practice since 1989 year

“C1 – C2 – Chapayev Peak – C3 – Summit – C3 – Chapayev Peak – C2 – BC”

Day 1. Arrival in Almaty in the morning. Drive 280 km. to BC Karkara, 2200 m a.s.l.

Day 2. Acclimatization hike up to 3600m on the summit’s slopes of Bas Karkara’s Peak, 4059m.

Day 3. Helicopter flight to Northern Inylchek Glacier BC, 4000 m.

Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for a first part of climbing.

First acclimatization climb.

Day 5. Ascension on a simple snow slope of 35 degrees to C1, 4700m. Crossing a bergschrund by fix-ropes before C1. Overnight in C1.

Day 6. Climb up to C2 using fix-ropes, 5500m. Delivery of tent, food etc. – 6-7 hours. The average steepness of a snow crest is 40 degrees, partially with rock sections. There is 10-meters rocky wall on the altitude of 5300 m. Descend to BC – 2-3 hours.

Day 7. Rest in BC. Preparation to the ascension on the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m.

Second acclimatization climb.

Day 8. After lunch, climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.

Day 9. Climb up to C2, 6-7 hours. Overnight, 5500m.

Day 10. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m, by fix-ropes  - 4-5 hours. Climb up to 5900 m. on the snow crest, then – rocky belt of 45 degrees of slope ratio up to the snow dome, 6150m. Descent to BC – 4-5 hours.

Day 11. Rest in BC.

Day 12. Rest in BC. Preparation to ascent the Summit.

Ascent to the Summit.

Day 13. Climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.

Day 14. Climb up to C2. Overnight, 5500m.

Day 15. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m., and descent by the ice wall of bergschrund – 8-10 m. using fix-roes and ladder – to the snow crest that leads to the saddle, 5900m. Overnight.

Day 16. Ascension on the top of Mt.Khan Tengri, 7010m. Start at 3 a.m. Climb up along the western rocky crest by fix-ropes – 8—9 hours and decent along the same route to C3 – 4-5 hours.

Day 17. Climb up the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m and descent to C2, 5500 m – 2 hours.

Day 18. Descent to BC – 3-4 hours.

Day 19. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.

Day 20. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.

Day 21. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.

Day 22. Helicopter flight to Karkara BC.

Day 23. Drive to Almaty. Hotel.

Day 24. Departure.

The cost of the program: $2,200 per person.

 

 

The price includes:

*Hotel in Almaty, B/B - 1 night *Return charter helicopter flight to BC (no limitation for luggage overweight) *Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North *Meeting and seeing off in Almaty International Airport  *All transfers *Accommodation in “family tents” on "Full board" basis in Karkara BC *Sauna or shower in Karkara BC *Accommodation in “family tents” with mattresses and wooden platforms in North Inylchek BC on "Full board" basis *Lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty *Mess-tent with tables and chairs in BC on glacier  *Kitchen-tent  *Cooking accessories in BC  *Cook *Hot shower in North Inylchek BC *Toilets in BC *Interpreter’s service  *All staffs insurance *Entrance fee for the border region  *Ecological duties *Evacuation of debris from BC  *Medical aid in the BC *Consultations by an experienced guide  *Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office *Walky-Talky  *Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries.

The price excludes:

*Food & equipment above the BC on the glacier *Rescue (insurance policy required) *Changing of departure's date from Almaty by international airlines *Extra hotel nights in Almaty *Meal in Almaty *Local guide *Extra helicopter flight *Sightseeing in Almaty *Wireless Internet access in Karkara BC and  Glacier BC *Bar bills

Expedition dates: 

July 12 - August 04, 2019

July 21 - August 13, 2019

July 31- August 23, 2019

                         

  1. “Guided expedition” in the Joint team:

The program is exactly as in Classic version.  

The cost of expedition is $2,990 per person.

The price includes:

*Hotel in Almaty, B/B - 1 night *Return charter helicopter flight to BC *Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North  *Meeting and seeing off in Almaty International Airport  *All transfers  *Lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty *Accommodation in “family tents” on "Full board" basis in Karkara BC *“Family tents” with mattresses and wooden platforms in North Inylchek BC  *Three meals a day in BC    *Interpreter’s service  *experienced guide, guide’s assistants for each of 4 climbers; group equipment will be provided: 2 and 4 persons high-altitude tents, ropes, gas cylinders and gas stoves, sets of cooking battery; high-altitude food will be purchased (the list will be sent to each participant in advance in order to correct it individually) *All staffs insurance  *Entrance fee for the border region  *Ecological duties  *Mess-tent with tables and chairs in BC on glacier  *Kitchen-tent  *Cooking accessories in BC  *Cook  *Sauna or shower in BC *Toilets in BC *Evacuation of debris from BC  *Medical aid in the BC *Consultations by an experienced guide  *Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office *Walky-Talky  *Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries.

The price excludes:

*Food & equipment above the BC on the glacier *Rescue (insurance policy required) *Changing of departure's date from Almaty by international airlines *Extra hotel nights in Almaty *Meal in Almaty *Local guide *Extra helicopter flight *Sightseeing in Almaty *Wireless Internet access in Karkara BC and  Glacier BC *Bar bills

 

Expedition fixed dates:    July 21- August 13, 2019

 

 

  1. “Advanced” program:

Day 1. Arrival in Almaty in the morning. Drive 280 km. to BC Karkara.

Day 2. Helicopter flight to BC Northern Inylchek.

Day 3. Consultation and preparation for climbing in BC.

Day 4. Climbing to C1, 4700 m.

Day 5. Climbing to C2, 5500 m.

Day 6. Ascent to the northern summit of Chapayev peak, 6150 m. Descent to BC.

Day 7. Rest in BC.

Day 8. Rest in BC.

Day 9. Climbing to C1, 4700 m.

Day 10. Climbing to C2, 5500 m.

Day 11. Ascent to the northern summit of Chapayev peak, 6150 m and descent to C3, 5900 m.

Day 12. Climb to the top of Khan Tengri peak and descend to C3.

Day 13. Return to C2.

Day 14. Descent to BC.

Day 15. Reserve day for bad weather.

Day 16. Reserve day for bad weather.

Day 17. Reserve day for bad weather.

Day 18. Helicopter flight to BC Karkara.

Day 19. Transfer to Almaty. Hotel.

Day 20. Departure home.

The cost of program is $2,000 per person.

The price includes:

*Hotel in Almaty, B/B - 1 night *Return charter helicopter flight to BC (no limitation for luggage overweight) *Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North *Meeting and seeing off in Almaty International Airport  *All transfers *Accommodation in “family tents” on "Full board" basis in Karkara BC *Sauna or shower in Karkara BC *Accommodation in “family tents” with mattresses and wooden platforms in North Inylchek BC on "Full board" basis *Lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty *Mess-tent with tables and chairs in BC on glacier  *Kitchen-tent  *Cooking accessories in BC  *Cook *Hot shower in North Inylchek BC *Toilets in BC *Interpreter’s service  *All staffs insurance *Entrance fee for the border region  *Ecological duties *Evacuation of debris from BC  *Medical aid in the BC *Consultations by an experienced guide  *Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office *Walky-Talky  *Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries.

The price excludes:

*Food & equipment above the BC on the glacier *Rescue (insurance policy required) *Changing of departure's date from Almaty by international airlines *Extra hotel nights in Almaty *Meal in Almaty *Local guide *Extra helicopter flight *Sightseeing in Almaty *Wireless Internet access in Karkara BC and  Glacier BC *Bar bills

Expedition fixed dates:    July 13 - August 1, 2019

                                         July 22 - August 10, 2019

                                         July 29 - August 17, 2019

                                         August 1 - August 20, 2019

 

 

 

  1. “Extreme” program:

Day 1. Arrival in Almaty. Drive 280 km. to BC Karkara.

Day 2. Helicopter flight to BC Northern Inylchek.

Day 3. Consultation and preparation for climbing in BC.

Day 4. Climbing to C1, 4700 m.

Day 5. Climbing to C2, 5500 m.

Day 6. Ascent to the northern summit of Chapayev peak, 6150 m and descent to C3, 5900 m.

Day 7. Climb to the top of Khan Tengri peak and descend to C3.

Day 8. Return to C2.

Day 9. Descent to BC.

Day 10. Reserve day for bad weather.

Day 11. Reserve day for bad weather.

Day 12. Helicopter flight to BC Karkara.

Day 13. Transfer to Almaty. Hotel.

Day 14. Departure home.

The cost of the program: $1,790 per person.

The price includes:

*Hotel in Almaty, B/B - 1 night *Return charter helicopter flight to BC (no limitation for luggage overweight) *Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North *Meeting and seeing off in Almaty International Airport  *All transfers *Accommodation in “family tents” on "Full board" basis in Karkara BC *Sauna or shower in Karkara BC *Accommodation in “family tents” with mattresses and wooden platforms in North Inylchek BC on "Full board" basis *Lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty *Mess-tent with tables and chairs in BC on glacier  *Kitchen-tent  *Cooking accessories in BC  *Cook *Hot shower in North Inylchek BC *Toilets in BC *Interpreter’s service  *All staffs insurance *Entrance fee for the border region  *Ecological duties *Evacuation of debris from BC  *Medical aid in the BC *Consultations by an experienced guide  *Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office *Walky-Talky  *Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries.

The price excludes:

*Food & equipment above the BC on the glacier *Rescue (insurance policy required) *Changing of departure's date from Almaty by international airlines *Extra hotel nights in Almaty *Meal in Almaty *Local guide *Extra helicopter flight *Sightseeing in Almaty *Wireless Internet access in Karkara BC and  Glacier BC *Bar bills

 

Expedition fixed dates: July 13 - July 26, 2019

                                      July 29 - August 11, 2019

                                      August 7 - August 20, 2019

 

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ЖИРГЭЭ

Бидэнтэй холбоо барих

Уулын спортын хувцас хэрэгсэл борлуулдаг болон бусад уулын спорттой холбоотой ажилладаг аж ахуйн нэгж, олон улсын байгууллагуудыг хамтран ажиллахыг урьж байна.


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info@mountain.mn